7 Sarees from Odisha that Redefine The Grace Of Ethnic Fashion

By Anusha Lall

Sarees are a must-have in every wardrobe — the grace a saree gives you is seldom found anywhere else. That elegance is in abundance in Odisha, which houses several glorious types of saree that remain timeless. Some are even handed down from generation to generation for safekeeping. Colour, texture and design combine in harmony to form sarees as distinguished as the ones from Odisha. Let’s talk about some of them. If you’re unsure which drape suits you, our guide to choosing the perfect saree for your body type is a good place to start.

1. Bomkai / Sonepuri saree

This saree takes its name from the village of its origin, Bomkai, in the Ganjam district. It was introduced in Sonepur under the rule of Ramai Dev. The cotton bomkai can be worn as daily wear, while the silk one is usually reserved for special and sacred occasions. An embodiment of simplicity, its design connects it to its tribal roots. The thread work on the border and pallu is intricate and often carries fish motifs, a cultural symbol of affluence and prosperity. Initially available in traditional red, black and white, bomkai sarees now come in multiple colours without losing any cultural value.

2. Khandua / Maniabandi / Kataki saree

In Odia, khandua means the cloth worn on the lower half of the body; the other two names come from the places of origin, Maniabandha and Cuttack. Women traditionally wear these sarees as bridal attire, and they are also specially created to be worn by Lord Jagannath as a lower cloth — the sacred versions carry stanzas and illustrations from the Gita Govinda. Woven in auspicious colours like red and orange, they feature sacred motifs; a famous theme is an elephant representing Buddha, surrounded by large-petalled flowers and peacocks. The borders are plain, in sharp contrast to other Odia sarees.

3. Habaspuri saree

This saree takes its name from the village Habaspur in Kalahandi district, where it was woven in the 19th century. The creation of this cotton-based textile is attributed to the Kondha weavers of Chicheguda in Kalahandi. Known for its unique hand-weave and traditional motifs of kumbha (temple), flowers and fish, this type of saree is now on the brink of extinction. Thirty weaver families of Chicheguda are working on reviving the Habaspuri tradition, which makes every Habaspuri saree precious and one of a kind.

4. Kotpad saree

From the tribal weavers of the Mirgan community comes the Kotpad saree, which takes its name from its village of origin. Its colours set it apart: the fabric is dyed with vegetable dyes from local aul trees, and the Kotpad tussar silk saree is a speciality of the region’s handloom fabrics for its natural colours and tribal art. The signature dyeing process can take up to a month, as each thread is dyed before the fabric is woven. Although only limited colours can be produced naturally, the results are striking. The motifs are all culturally derived — from crabs and fish to axes and bows, temples, boats and conches. Unique in every aspect, its eco-friendly nature only adds to its allure.

5. Sambalpuri saree

Handwoven traditionally, this saree is created in the Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur, Balangir and Boudh districts of Odisha. The fabric is tie-dyed before weaving, inspired by the craft of baandha, where yarns are tied in patterns and then dyed. This makes the fabric look almost identical on both sides. Once dyed, the colours are permanent, rendering the saree unique — exactly like a work of art. Heavy with symbolic motifs of flowers, wheel and shell, and woven in the auspicious red, white and black, it is the perfect blend of grace and beauty.

6. Pasapalli saree

This saree owes its name to the dice used in the game of chausar — it sports intricately woven check patterns that give it its identity, and is mainly created in Odisha’s Bargarh district. It’s woven in a variety of fabrics, from cotton and silk to tussar. While primarily known for its checkered weave, the borders in golden thread are worth swooning over. The intricate patterns and colour combinations deserve as much appreciation as the signature check, making this saree a must-have.

7. Berhampuri Patta saree

A 200-year-old weaving technique is used to create these extraordinary sarees. They were once exported to Southeast Asia and are famously donned by Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra in the Jagannath temple of Puri. The unique weaving technique is paired with Odia temple motifs for their sacred nature, and the zari work in the border adds value and just the right amount of shimmer. With its vibrant colours and incomparable weave, the Berhampuri Patta saree is as unique as it gets.

Choosing a saree will always be a task that demands thought and research, but the fact remains that sarees from Odisha have a unique style you simply can’t miss. When you want to be a class apart, an Odia saree fulfils that need while always being outstandingly brilliant.