Kasuti Embroidery: The Heritage of Karnataka
By Akanksha Mohit
Kasuti embroidery is a unique, traditional form of Indian embroidery first developed by the women of Karnataka. Associated with the region’s folk culture, its geometric patterns were inspired by the sculptures and architectural wonders of ancient Karnataka. Passed on from one generation to the next, the legacy of Kasuti is alive to this day.
Origin of Kasuti embroidery
Known as one of the oldest forms of Indian embroidery, Kasuti is said to have originated in the 7th century AD, believed to have developed during the rule of the Chalukya dynasty — when women courtiers were expected to be proficient in 64 arts, one of them being Kasuti. It is characteristic of North Karnataka, initially done in the Dharwad, Hubballi, Bijapur and Belgaum regions, but has now branched out across the entire state. The name itself explains the craft: kai means hand and suti means cotton — an art form done by hand using cotton threads.
Traditionally worked with silk or cotton threads on the handwoven Ilkal saree, the patterns generally include architectural motifs like temples, palanquins, chariots and rangoli designs, and sometimes mythological and floral motifs. It also carries immense cultural significance in parts of Karnataka, where it is customary for a bride to be presented with a black Kasuti-adorned saree called a Chandrakali saree. The symmetry and precision of the patterns, along with light-coloured threads on a darkly dyed fabric, give it a distinct look among other forms of embroidery. Usually used to adorn sarees and blouses, it sometimes incorporates mirror work and golden and silver threads for special occasions.
The process is exceptionally elaborate — it involves counting each thread used, with varying numbers of strands for different designs, demanding the labour of multiple people. It uses four types of stitches: Gavanthi (the double running stitch), Murgi (the zig-zag running stitch), Negi (the darning or weaving stitch) and Menthe (the cross-stitch).
Kasuti embroidery in modern times
Born in the minds of the women of Karnataka, this beautiful art form has grown through the ages and is now adopted for various garments across South India. Although sometimes done by machine, many rural families continue to practise it by hand — sometimes as their sole source of income — and even as it decorates Kanjeevaram and Mysore silk sarees, it retains its authenticity.
The Geographical Indications (GI) protection on Kasuti by the Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation (KHDC) conserves the integrity of the art and of the people practising it. It has, to a degree, blended into contemporary fashion trends and is no longer restricted to traditional sarees — it’s now done on kurtas, tops, blouses and shawls for a modest, subtle look. Thanks to its warm, natural feel, Kasuti is also used to beautify curtains, cushion covers, mats and other furnishings.
Entwined within the stitches of Kasuti are knowledge and love, passed on through the ages in the form of this surreal art. Reminiscent of the folk culture of Karnataka, it remains largely handwoven by native people, untouched by the air of modernity. Its intricate patterns give clothing a rustic look, perfectly capturing the essence of a woman while helping us stay true to our roots.
