Breathtaking Banarasi Silk: Everything you Need to Know

By Anusha Lall

Banarasi (or Benarasi) silk is a variant of silk that comes from the Indian city of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. It owes its name to its place of origin, called ‘Banaras’ in Hindi, and is famous all around the globe, primarily because of its sarees. Deeply connected with the rich cultural history of India, Banarasi silk is mentioned in the epic Mahabharata and in some Buddhist scriptures, which makes it truly timeless.

A typical Banarasi saree is only said to be ideal if it contains 5,600 thread wires, each at least 45 inches wide, and each saree requires hundreds of perforated cards during embroidery. These sarees were initially created exclusively for royalty and were extremely expensive — their high value owed to real silver and gold threads, with each piece taking as much as a year to complete.

Origin

The art of weaving Banarasi silk was introduced in India during the Mughal era. As with the patronage of jamawar in Akbar’s reign, weaving and designing this fabric was highly promoted, and Indian weavers embraced the new style with open arms — Banarasi silk has been widely loved ever since. Along with new weaving methods, weavers drew inspiration from Persian motifs, which joined traditional Indian designs. The Banarasi sarees you see today are a direct product of that blend of two cultures and two arts, supported by the enthusiastic patronage of the Mughals. While the silk was initially imported from China, it’s now supplied by southern India. Centuries old, the art has become a tradition passed from one generation to the next as a priceless heirloom, still heavily influenced by the Persian motifs that are now part of the typical flowery Banarasi design.

Design

Today, Banarasi sarees have made a name of their own, thanks to a delicate balance of elegance and majesty, with many designs inspired by the Mughal era. Designed with zardozi (or zari) embroidery, Banarasi silk initially used gold and silk thread, now often replaced with coloured threads to make the fabric more affordable. With substantial, delicate yet elaborate flora-and-fauna designs, the heavy work is compactly embroidered for a rich visual effect.

Creation

The design is so intricate it needs the complete attention and painstaking effort of at least three craftspeople at a time — one saree can take up to half a year, depending on the embroidery. On the power loom, one craftsperson weaves the silk, another dyes it, and a third engages the bundle of silk that creates the power ring. Designs traditionally woven from memory are now drawn on graph paper, printed onto a punch card that serves as a map for the embroiderers.

Foothold in India

As much as power looms have helped production, they’ve also endangered the art of handwoven Banarasi silk — handmade sarees take longer and cost more than faster handloom pieces. This was addressed in 2009 when a weaver association of Uttar Pradesh secured a Geographical Indication: any silk or brocade not from six listed districts is not eligible to be sold under the Banarasi label. Banarasi silk has benefitted from this protection and from the exposure it gets as traditional decor in hotels and resorts, while new creative designs join the old as viable options in an ever-changing fashion scene.

Styling Banarasi silk

Banarasi silk sarees are usually worn on celebratory and auspicious occasions — the luxurious design and intricate fabric add sparkle to any joyous event. Traditionally considered ideal bridal wear, a Banarasi saree should be accessorised to suit the occasion and theme; the colours and designs are rich enough to support both heavy and light accessories.

With the dawn of a new era of fashion, Banarasi silk has kept its place as alluring and graceful — and with such a long history behind it, it seems determined to make that history longer still.